A collar made from waterproof webbing is strong, easy to clean, and even a beginner can make one without a dedicated workshop. We will guide you step by step from choosing the materials to the finished piece.
Why make a dog collar from waterproof webbing
Waterproof webbing works very well for collars, whether you make them for your own dog or to order. Unlike ordinary polypropylene webbing, it doesn’t fray, doesn’t wear and doesn’t soak up water. It holds up in rain, mud and rough terrain; after a walk, you just wipe it with a cloth. The edges don’t curl, and the collar keeps its shape even after years.
Add good-quality metal hardware and a little care, and you get a collar that keeps its shape and withstands pulling.
What you will need
- Waterproof webbing (16, 20 or 25 mm wide)
- A buckle and a D-ring in the width of the webbing
- Grommets and rivets
- A press or hand tools for riveting
- Punches for waterproof webbing and strap end punches
- A tape measure and sharp cutting pliers
- Rubberizing gel for finishing webbing edges
- Angelus acrylic paint (optional, for matching the colour)
Choosing the combination: webbing and hardware
Waterproof webbing and hardware come in many colors and widths. Choose them so that they match in color or material. You can keep the same finish (such as antique brass or nickel), or stick to one material (brass, stainless steel).
16 mm collar width
- 16 mm webbing
- 16 mm buckle
- 16 mm D-ring
- 5.2 mm grommets (hand setter)
- double cap rivet, 8 mm post (hand setter)
20 mm collar width
- 20 mm webbing
- 20 mm buckle
- 20 mm D-ring
- 5.2 mm grommets (hand setter)
- double cap rivet, 8 mm post (hand setter)
25 mm collar width
- 25 mm webbing
- 25 mm buckle
- 25 mm D-ring
- 5.2 mm grommets (hand setter)
- double cap rivet, 8 mm post (hand setter)
Measuring and working out the length
- Measure around the dog’s neck with a tape measure.
- For comfort, add 1–2 cm, or keep two fingers under the tape while measuring.
- Measure the finished collar from the buckle to the main hole (the one that matches the neck size).
To make the collar more adjustable, add at least two more holes on the loosening side. This helps when the dog grows a thicker coat or puts on muscle.
Calculating the total collar length
To get the actual length of webbing to cut, calculate it like this:
- Main hole: the hole that matches the neck size (including 1–2 cm of extra room)
- Loosening side: add at least 2 holes (according to the hole spacing you choose)
- End past the last hole: add 4–5 cm for a narrower collar (16 mm) or 6–8 cm for wider ones (20–25 mm), so that you can tuck the end into the keeper
- Fold around the buckle: add about 6–10 cm (better to leave it longer; you can shorten it later)
Formula (approximate)
Total webbing length =
(neck size + 1–2 cm) + (number of loosening holes × hole spacing) + (end past the last hole) + (fold around the buckle)
Example calculation
Neck size 41 cm, extra room 2 cm, hole spacing 2 cm, 2 loosening holes, end 6 cm, fold 10 cm
→ 41 + 2 + (2×2) + 6 + 10 = 63 cm of webbing to cut
| Neck size | Webbing width | Hole spacing | Approximate cut length |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30 cm | 16 mm | 2 cm | 45–51 cm |
| 40 cm | 20 mm | 2.5 cm | 58–65 cm |
| 50 cm | 25 mm | 2.5 cm | 68–75 cm |
Tip: you will always fine-tune the fold around the buckle and the length of the end to the specific type of collar. Stick to the rule: leave it long, shorten it later.
How to make the collar
Cutting the webbing and shaping the ends
Cut the webbing to the length you calculated. Shape the ends with a strap end punch; choose the shape you like (round or pointed).
Holes and their layout
Lay out the whole collar before you punch anything; always start by placing the holes for the buckle. The standard spacing is 2.5 cm (2 cm for smaller collars).
Add 1–2 holes on the tightening side and at least two on the loosening side.
Punch the holes with punches for waterproof webbing (ø 3 or 4 mm, depending on the rivet and the buckle tongue). By hand, use a steel handle and a mallet; the handle only takes ø 3 and 4 mm punches, so punch the holes for grommets (ø 5.2 and 6 mm) in a hand press. Don’t use leather hole punches or punch pliers on webbing; the tool could crack (see the comparison of hole punching tools).
Tip: punch test holes in a scrap of webbing with ø 3 and 4 mm punches to find out which one fits the tongue of your buckle.
Fitting the buckle and D-ring
- From the main hole, measure the neck size back toward the end; this is where the buckle will sit.
- Fold the webbing over and fit the buckle and the D-ring.
- Mark the rivet positions, punch the holes in the top layer,
fold the webbing and transfer the marks to the bottom layer of the fold so that the holes line up exactly.
- Only now shorten the fold to its final length and shape the end.
Types of buckles and how to fit them
There are two main types of buckles, and you fit each one a little differently.
- Buckle with a center bar: you slide the webbing into it and don’t punch a hole for the tongue.
- Buckle without a center bar: the tongue has to go through the webbing, so you need to punch a hole and put the tongue through it before you fold the webbing back.
Finishing the edges
Even out the cut edge with the white gel Girba Nubio Opaco: degrease the edge with isopropyl alcohol (IPA), apply 1–3 thin coats and let each one dry for an hour. You will find the procedure with photos in the article How to work with waterproof webbing.
To match the edge color to the webbing, use Angelus acrylic paint; for each webbing colour on our website, you will find our tip for a matching shade.
Setting the grommets
- For an E10x5.2 grommet, punch a ø 5.2 mm hole with the 211700STP-12 punch (for E12x6.0, a ø 6 mm hole with the 211700STP-14 punch).
- Insert the grommet into the punched hole and fit the washer from underneath.
- Set it in a press or by hand with a setter and anvil. You will find the detailed procedure in our guide to setting grommets.
- The result is the same; the difference is mainly in speed and comfort: a press is faster, while the hand method is cheaper and takes up less space.
Final assembly of the collar
- Fit the buckle and the D-ring and check that everything sits right.
- Rivet the joint in a press or by hand; above all, firmly and straight, with no play or tilt. The article How to rivet with a hand press shows riveting with a press; for riveting without a press, see How to set rivets by hand.
Finally, buckle the collar and check that nothing scratches and that the rivets and grommets are seated correctly.
Video tutorial
Final tips
Common mistakes (and how to avoid them)
- Collar too tight: add extra room and more loosening holes.
- Crooked holes: mark first, then punch; also pre-mark the opposite holes exactly in the center of the webbing.
- Untidy ends: a strap end punch and edge gel will help.
- Grommet doesn’t fit: choose it according to the buckle tongue and use the right punch.
The article The most common mistakes in collar making covers more mistakes and how to check the finished collar.
Care
The webbing is waterproof, so just wipe it with a cloth. Wipe the hardware dry after it gets wet. Check the grommets and rivets from time to time, especially if your dog pulls a lot.
Tip: want to make more collars? Make yourself a template; it speeds up your work and every piece comes out equally accurate.
Making a keeper
If the collar has more holes (for example, a wider range for tightening and loosening), it is worth adding a keeper to hold the loose end of the webbing. It stops the end from flapping and keeps it in place.
- Make the keeper from narrower waterproof webbing, so that the end of the collar slides through it easily.
- First, place two layers of the collar webbing on top of each other (the way they will overlap when the dog wears it).
- Then wrap the narrower webbing around them, mark where the ends meet and cut the webbing.
- Check again that the length is right: the keeper must not be too loose or too tight.
- Punch small holes at both ends of the keeper (about 3–4 mm from the edge), preferably with a flat lacing chisel (such as 2 mm).
Finally, insert a staple for keepers, line it up and close the prongs with small pliers.
Slide the keeper onto the collar before the final riveting.
Decorating with paint
Your collar is finished, but if you want to take the look further, take a look at our article on painting waterproof webbing.
Frequently asked questions about making a collar
How do I calculate the right webbing length?
Formula: neck size + room for adjustment + end past the holes + fold at the buckle. Always mark the main hole after trying the collar on the dog’s neck. For a quick guide, use the small table in this article.
What hole spacing should I choose?
Narrower collars (16 mm) usually have 2 cm, wider ones (20–25 mm) usually 2.5 cm. Always go by the size of the dog and the type of buckle.
How do I choose the webbing width?
16 mm for smaller dogs and slim necks, 20 mm as an all-rounder for medium dogs, 25 mm for larger dogs and strong pullers. Consider the look you want, too.
How do I choose a matching buckle and D-ring?
The buckle and the D-ring must have the same nominal width as the webbing (16/20/25 mm). With the buckle, allow the space you need for the fold at the buckle according to its design.
Do I have to use grommets in the holes?
Not always. In the holes under the most stress, they extend the collar’s life and keep the hole in shape; they are useful mainly on wider collars and for dogs that pull more.
Press vs. hand riveting: which is better?
A press is faster and more consistent; hand riveting is cheaper and the tools take up little space. When riveting by hand, make sure you strike straight down on a hard base.
What punch diameter and rivet length should I choose?
The hole diameter depends on the rivet, not on the width of the webbing: for 20 Z, 63 Z, 66 Z and 70 Z rivets (8 and 13 mm posts), punch ø 3 mm; for 70 Z 11mm, 72 Z, 75 Z and 79 Z, punch ø 4 mm. For an E10x5.2 grommet, punch ø 5.2 mm; for E12x6.0, ø 6 mm. The rivet post should be 2–3 mm longer than the total thickness of the layers: for two layers of webbing (about 5 mm), an 8 mm post; for three layers (about 7.5 mm), an 11 mm post.
How do I test the collar before first use?
Do a pull test by hand (simulate a sudden jerk). The rivet must stay straight, with no play and no cracks around the holes.
How often should I check the collar, and how do I care for it?
Do the first check after 1 week of wear, then regularly whenever you clean it. Just wipe the webbing with a damp cloth, and dry the hardware after it gets wet.
What if I have a different buckle from the one in the example?
Adjust the length according to the actual depth of the fold of your buckle. Fold it over as a trial, check that the strap slides through and where the main hole sits, and only then punch the final holes.
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